Thursday, May 24, 2012

An Atypical Transparency

The May/June 2012 issue of Handwoven magazine arrived last week with my article about using the technique of handwoven transparency in the design of a garment. It's always interesting to see how the photo stylist presents my work, and I like the absence of a model for this photo which allows the transparent quality of the weaving to be seen more clearly.
 Photo by Handwoven magazine
The inset photos are some I took during the weaving process that accompany my instructions for weaving the inlayed squares. 

According to Editor Anita Osterhaug, the editorial team was disappointed that the final photo didn't clearly show the true colors of the inlays, but you can see them here in the detail photos; luminous gold, a little pewter, and earthy shades set off by the taupe background.

And now that the blouse is back home, I can finally wear it!

Friday, May 18, 2012

Atwater Bronson Lace Sample and Fabric

My Weave Structures Study Group has been focused on various lace weaves this year, and I recently discovered a draft for "Concentric Squares" by Dorothy S. Burton in Carol Strickler's 8-Shaft Pattern book. 

I thought it would be interesting to see if the squares could be woven in different combinations and/or with some solid, some open areas. After a lot of experimenting with a computer drafting program, I wove a sample-- a portion shown here:

While I have several ideas for using the squares-in-squares possibilities, I also worked out a way to weave open and closed squares across the width of the cloth. That fabric is now on my loom:
The limitation with this particular combination is that, in addition to the shafts for tabby (2), each square requires two more shafts; so eight shafts can weave three different squares. I used three of each square for a total of nine across the fabric, alternating weaving them solid or open.

The fiber is white tencel and natural 8/2 cotton woven with the warp floats on the surface. But... I think I'll use the reverse side of the fabric for the right side. I like the look of the weft floats, and, on that side, the pure white tencel creates a tiny bead-like spot between the lace squares which will look great with the beading I plan to do on the finished garment. 

Now, back to my loom!